January 21, 2014
John T. Edge, director of the Southern Foodways Alliance, calls barbecue “America’s national folk food.” As such, you’ll encounter variations on – and multiple hubs for – barbecue across the South, though none as spectacular as Memphis in May.
Memphis in May is a month-long series of events that began in 1977 as a cultural exchange between Memphis and the world. The World Championship Barbecue Cooking Contest (WCBCC) was added in 1978. Annually, the contest draws around 250 internationally-seeded teams – and 100,000-plus attendees – making it a multicultural party. (Mark your calendar for WCBCC 2014: 15-17 May.)
To compete, teams balance playtime with sweaty, smoky work. For Memphis native Rodney Ashley, cook for WCBCC team the Paradise Porkers, it’s a year round commitment participating in numerous regional barbecue competitions and planning for the next WCBCC as soon as the current one wraps. The week leading up to WCBCC, the team pulls a camper into Memphis’ Tom Lee Park, where they live and work until the contest closes.
Not on a team? Ashley recommends the following:
Even without a taste (officially, local health regulations restrict teams from serving the general public), a walk through WCBCC trips the senses: Recall that bit about Ashley living at the competition? All teams construct “booths” to this end – booths that might be one or three stories high and incorporate tiki bars, dance floors or animatronic dinosaurs. General admission to WCBCC (usually less than $10 and free during advertised periods) buys you all the gawking you want. (For around $425, a WCBCC VIP pass scores you guided, all-weekend access – and one-on-one time with teams.)
What’s Ashley’s strategy for WCBCC 2014? “We were less than five points away from being in the top five for ribs in 2013,” he says, continuing, “We’re very proud of our product and there’s a lot of tradition in it. My granddaddy did it a certain way and that’s how I learned it. But I do want to improve.” Fundamentally for the Paradise Porkers, that means enhancing the meat with their signature flavour profile, described by Ashley as “sweet with a little bit of heat.”
For all the variation, barbecue tradition is rooted in gathering people around unhurried comfort food. That’s easy to remember during WCBCC, as you watch the smoke fade with the sun over the Mississippi River.
Feature image: Masters show off their barbecuing chops at the WCBCC © Vico Images/Polara Studios/Michael Shay/Fogstock/Thinkstock
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Written by Samantha Crespo